Heritage Discovery Programme: An exploration of Ismaili heritage
One-hundred-fourteen delegates from 20 countries convened at the Ismaili Centre in London at the end of March to celebrate the culmination of the travel component of the Heritage Discovery Programme (HDP). A Golden Jubilee International Programme, HDP focused on the exploration of Ismaili heritage through travel in Afghanistan, Egypt, India, Syria, Tajikistan, Tanzania, Uganda, the United Kingdom, and Zanzibar.
Members of the Learning Resource Centre in Pune, India share a few words with an HDP delegate from Canada. Photo: Nazim Lokhandwala
Delegates participating in the programme came away with a greater awareness of the impact that faith and society have on Islamic cultures, traditions and heritages, as well as the inseparable link between din and dunya in Islam. The programme brought to light the diversity of the Jamat and provided a means to share memories and forge bonds through a common understanding of the faith.
“In our group, 15 delegates represented nine countries,” said Ashnoor Nagji, a Canadian delegate to Tajikistan. “I came to appreciate the insights and interpretations that others espoused and the plethora of potential paths for exemplifying our ethics and values.”
East Africa
Q&A session between the delegates and an engineer at the Bujagali hydropower project in Uganda. Photo: Akbar Hakim
The journey through East Africa brought to light the co-mingling of Bantu, Swahili, Indian, Arab and British cultures in regional identities. While many of the Ismaili settlers of Indian origin, who arrived at the former British colonies in the 1800s through Zanzibar and Mombasa, migrated inland to Uganda, Kenya, and Tanzania, many also settled in Zambia and Mozambique (a former Portuguese colony).
“I remember my father who used to tell us stories to teach us history,” commented one delegate. “Our youth have few opportunities to see and touch history and HDP fills that gap.”
In Uganda, delegates visited the newly built Kampala Serena Hotel, took a day trip to the site of the Aga Khan Academy and witnessed the construction of the Bujagali Hydropower Dam at Jinja, a project co-sponsored by the Aga Khan Fund for Economic Development and the International Finance Corporation (part of the World Bank Group). The 200-megawatt power project represents the largest single private sector investment of any sort in East Africa and the largest independent power project in sub-Saharan Africa.
Egypt
A craftsmen works in the Darb al-Ahmar neighborhood of Cairo. Photo: Asif Bhalesha
The expedition to Egypt represented a different experience for many. While Egypt’s pharaonic history draws international allure, the HDP delegates were most excited to learn about the role of the Imamat in the Fatimid Empire.
Walking through Old Cairo, the delegates experienced some of the most compelling architectural structures and institutions in Ismaili history and the broader Islamic civilisations. They took in the city of “Al-Muizz al-Din Allah,” including the gates of the city Bab al-Futuh, Bab al-Nasr, and Bab Zuweila — all built by the Fatimids.
While visiting Al-Azhar Park in Cairo, delegates came across a promenade adorned with a fountain and water stream. Photo: Asif Bhalesha
The highlight of the trip was Al-Azhar Park. The Park project is a catalyst for social, economic and cultural renewal and improvement, and will have far reaching consequences for the 200 000 residents of the neighbouring Darb al-Ahmar district. The tour of the Darb al-Ahmar neighbourhood included a visit to the restoration site of the 14th century Umm al-Sultan Shabaan mosque and the Khayrebek complex, both of which are featured in the Historic Cities Programme exhibition. It allowed individuals to appreciate the work of the AKDN in rebuilding communities.
India
A view of Humayun’s Tomb near Dehli. Photo: Asif Bhalesha
In India, delegates visited projects undertaken by AKDN to preserve local history and traditions. The gardens of Humayun’s Tomb, for example, were restored under the Historic Cities Programme of the Aga Khan Trust for Culture. The project is listed as the first privately funded World Heritage Site restoration in India.
Members of the Learning Resource Centre gather regularly to learn English and computer fundamentals, as well as to make handicrafts. Photo: Nazim Lokhandwala
One of the memorable events from India was the visit to the Learning Resource Centre, where delegates met with senior members of the Jamat. Together, they sang songs and danced, and the delegates listened to the seniors recount stories. In appreciation of the visit, the Centre’s members presented the delegates with handicrafts.
Syria
A local tour guide recounts the history of the Ummayad Mosque complex in the Old City of Damascus. Photo: Akbar Hakim
During their visit to Syria, delegates toured the Old City of Damascus, and had a chance to see the Umayyad Mosque complex. They also travelled to Aleppo and explored its Citadel, which was the site of the Aga Khan Award for Architecture in 2001 and was recently restored by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture.
HDP delegates dance with members of the Jamat in Salamieh, Syria. Photo: Navroz Mitha
While in Syria the delegates had a unique opportunity to visit Salamieh, and to meet members of the Syrian Jamat. They visited the Mausoleum of Prince Aly Khan, Mawlana Hazar Imam’s father, as well as the the Maqam al-Imam complex that houses the Mausoleum of Imam Radhi al-din Abdullah. They also travelled outside of Salamieh to the Mashad Ali in Masayaf, where the tomb of Imam Wafi Ahmed is situated.
Tajikistan and Afghanistan
HDP delegates gather as members of the Tajikistan Jamat share their dance and musical traditions. Photo: Moez Visram
In Tajikistan the chance to interact and celebrate Navroz with the local Jamat was by far the most memorable experience for many. It allowed delegates to partake of Ismaili traditions that were different from their own.
Delegates also visited the sites of projects currently under development such as the Ismaili Centre in Dushanbe, the campuses of the University of Central Asia, and the AKFED-funded Pamir Energy power plant. These projects illustrated the vast array of institutional work being carried out by the Imamat.
In the spirit of cultural exchange, HDP delegates dance with members of the Jamat in Tajikistan. Photo: Moez Visram
The highlight of the trip was a visit to Ishkashim across the Panj river in Afghanistan. There delegates visited the first purpose-built Jamatkhana in Badakhshan Province. They planted several trees near the Jamatkhana to commemorate the historic symbolic visit of the global Jamat to Afghanistan.
For many, HDP was one of the most memorable experiences of the Golden Jubilee. Visits to the architectural monuments and to mausoleums of the Imams enhanced delegates’ understanding of Ismaili heritage and situated the Imamat within historical contexts. Witnessing the impact of the AKDN institutions provided insight into Mawlana Hazar Imam's work to improve the human condition. Finally, the strengthening of bonds with Ismaili brothers and sisters from different parts of the world deepened their personal and intellectual growth during the two-week journey. It was an exceptional experience for all.
